The most beautiful island we have sailed to, and the one with the most rolly anchorages. Rainforest to the waterline, rivers, waterfalls, hot springs and whales offshore. Nobody bases a bareboat fleet here, so you sail in from the French island on either side: Guadeloupe to the north or Martinique to the south.
Who a Dominica charter suits
Crews who would rather hike to a waterfall than sit at a beach bar, and a skipper who has already done open-water passages. Dominica has two usable anchorages, both deep, both capable of rolling you out of your bunk. If your crew needs flat water and a swim off the stern every night, stay in the French islands.
Where you start
There is no charter fleet on Dominica, no marina and no haul-out. From the north you start at Marina Bas-du-Fort in Pointe-a-Pitre, Guadeloupe (airport PTP, 15 minutes away), and Dominica is a day past Les Saintes. From the south you start at Le Marin, Martinique (airport FDF, 45 minutes), and Dominica is a day past Saint-Pierre. Guadeloupe is the easier side: the crossing is about 20 miles and you arrive at Portsmouth, the better anchorage. From Martinique it is about 36 miles to Roseau and the week is mostly mileage. Check that your charter company allows the boat to leave French waters, and tell them your plan. Provision in France before you go: the supermarkets are far better and cheaper.
The 7 night route on a map
Gold pins are the nights, numbered in order. Light blue pins are day stops on the way. The longer passages are marked in nautical miles.
From Guadeloupe
- Charter base: Bas-du-Fort, Pointe-a-Pitre
- Ilet du Gosier
- Terre-de-Haut, Les Saintes
- Portsmouth, Dominica
- Day stop: Mero
- Roseau, Dominica
- With more time: Saint-Louis, Marie-Galante
- With more time: Pigeon Island, Guadeloupe
From Martinique
- Charter base: Le Marin, Martinique
- Sainte-Anne
- Grande Anse d’Arlet
- Saint-Pierre
- Roseau, Dominica
- Day stop: Mero
- Portsmouth, Dominica
- Day stop: Fort-de-France
Not for navigational purposes. Positions are approximate and the route line is a sketch that keeps off the land. It ignores depth, reefs and shoals.
- Charter base
- Night stop, numbered in order
- Day stop
- With more time
- Typical route
7 nights from Guadeloupe: day by day
The better way to do it. Short first and last days, Les Saintes as the stepping stone each way, and three nights on Dominica with two of them in Portsmouth, the more comfortable anchorage.
Bas-du-Fort, Pointe-a-Pitre to Ilet du Gosier
Out of the marina and three miles along the coast to anchor in sand behind a little island with a lighthouse. Swim, sort the boat out, early night.
Ilet du Gosier to Terre-de-Haut, Les Saintes
About 21 miles, the second half across open water with the trades on the beam. Pick up a paid mooring off the village, walk up to Fort Napoleon, and clear out of France on the computer ashore.
Terre-de-Haut, Les Saintes to Portsmouth, Dominica
The Dominica Channel: about 20 miles, reefed, with the biggest seas near each end. A PAYS boat will meet you off the bay. Take his mooring, then clear in and out in one visit at customs.
Portsmouth, Dominica to Portsmouth, Dominica
No sailing. The Indian River at first light, then an island tour or the walk up to Fort Shirley. If it is Sunday, the PAYS beach barbecue.
Portsmouth, Dominica to Roseau, Dominica
On the way: Mero
Down the lee coast in flat water and fluky wind, with a lunch stop off the black sand at Mero if it is calm. Take a mooring at Roseau and book a taxi for Trafalgar Falls and Titou Gorge.
Roseau, Dominica to Terre-de-Haut, Les Saintes
The long day: nearly 40 miles. Motor-sail up the lee of Dominica early, then a fast reach across the channel. Clear back in to France.
Terre-de-Haut, Les Saintes to Ilet du Gosier
Back to Guadeloupe, close-hauled for the last part. Anchor behind the islet again so the last morning is a ten minute motor.
Ilet du Gosier to Bas-du-Fort, Pointe-a-Pitre
Round the corner into Bas-du-Fort for fuel and check-out. Most bases want the boat back on the dock by mid morning.
7 nights from Martinique: day by day
This works, but be honest with your crew: it is about 180 miles in seven nights, with one very long day. Ten nights turns it from a delivery into a holiday. If the forecast is over 20 knots, do the Martinique week instead.
Le Marin, Martinique to Grande Anse d’Arlet
An afternoon start and 15 miles downwind past Diamond Rock. Check what is allowed in the mooring zone, anchor in sand and swim with the turtles.
Grande Anse d’Arlet to Saint-Pierre
On the way: Fort-de-France
Up the lee coast, with a lunch stop under the fort at Fort-de-France if you want a town. Anchor on the narrow shelf at Saint-Pierre, clear of the wreck zone, and clear out of France on the computer.
Saint-Pierre to Roseau, Dominica
The Dominica Channel from the south: about 37 miles, reefed, leaving at first light. A boat helper will meet you off Roseau. Take a mooring and clear in and out in one visit.
Roseau, Dominica to Portsmouth, Dominica
On the way: Mero
Waterfalls by taxi first thing if you can, then up the lee coast to Portsmouth and a PAYS mooring. Lunch stop at Mero in calm weather.
Portsmouth, Dominica to Portsmouth, Dominica
No sailing. The Indian River at first light, Fort Shirley, an island tour. This is the day the miles were for.
Portsmouth, Dominica to Saint-Pierre
The very long day: about 57 miles. Leave before dawn, motor-sail down the lee of Dominica, then reach across the channel. Clear back in to France at Saint-Pierre.
Saint-Pierre to Sainte-Anne
About 30 miles, the last part to windward along the south coast. Motor-sail close inshore where the sea is flatter.
Sainte-Anne to Le Marin, Martinique
Two miles up the channel to Le Marin. Fuel on the way in. Most bases want the boat back on the dock by mid morning.
The stops in more detail
Portsmouth and Prince Rupert Bay
The big bay at the north end and the place to spend your time. The local yacht association, PAYS, runs moorings, a night security patrol, tours and a Sunday beach barbecue. It is deep, 30 to 60 feet, so take a mooring. Swell wraps in when the trades are up.
The Indian River
Rowed, not motored, by a licensed guide, up a mangrove river under a closed canopy. Go at first light. It is the one tour everybody does and it earns it.
Cabrits and Fort Shirley
A restored British fort on the headland above the anchorage, with easy trails and the best view of the bay. Walkable from the dinghy dock.
Roseau
The capital. Moorings off the south end of town are run by local operators who will also arrange your tours and help with customs. Deep, narrow shelf, more exposed than Portsmouth, and it can roll hard. One night is usually enough.
Trafalgar Falls, Titou Gorge and the Boiling Lake
All reached from Roseau by taxi with a guide. Trafalgar and Titou are half a day. The Boiling Lake is a full, hard day on foot, six to eight hours.
Champagne Reef
Volcanic vents bubble up through the reef south of Roseau. Go by taxi or tour boat: the south coast is a marine reserve where yachts may not anchor.
Les Saintes, Guadeloupe
The stop on the way from the north: a pretty French village, paid moorings and good restaurants. Clear out of France here.
Saint-Pierre, Martinique
The stop on the way from the south, under Mont Pelee. Clear out of France on the computer here.
Where the work is
The channels
Both crossings are open Atlantic between high islands: 15 to 25 knots on the beam, two to three metre seas and stronger wind funnelling round the ends of the islands. Reef before you leave the lee. Guadeloupe to Portsmouth via Les Saintes is about 20 miles. Saint-Pierre to Roseau is about 36.
The roll
Dominica is steep-to with no real harbours. Swell bends round the ends of the island into both anchorages, and the mountain gusts swing the boat beam-on to it. A stern anchor or a bridle to hold the bow into the swell makes the difference between sleeping and not.
Depth
The bottom drops away fast. Expect 30 to 80 feet where you want to anchor, which is why almost everybody takes a mooring. Small bays in between, like Mero, are fair-weather lunch stops only.
Boat helpers
A boat will meet you a mile out. In Portsmouth, deal with PAYS members, who are trained, insured and identified. Pick one, use him for the mooring and the tours, and the others will leave you alone. Agree prices first. It is a good system once you understand it.
Clearing in and out
Do the pre-arrival form on SailClear. Clear at Portsmouth or Roseau. If you stay two weeks or less you clear in and out in one visit, and the permit lets you move between the two ports. Fees are small. France is a free online declaration at each end.
No back-up
No marina, no chandlery, fuel and water by jerry can or by arrangement with your boat helper. If something breaks, the fix is back in France.
When to go
December to May is the season. January to March brings the strongest trades and the most swell in the anchorages, so that is when Dominica rolls worst. April and May are calmer and still dry. It rains a lot in Portsmouth at any time of year, which is why the island looks the way it does. Hurricane season is June to November, and Dominica was hit very hard by Maria in 2017.
How Dominica compares with the BVI
| BVI | Dominica | |
|---|---|---|
| Charter bases | Half a dozen | None: sail in from Guadeloupe or Martinique |
| Usable anchorages | Dozens | Two, both deep |
| Roll at anchor | Rare | Common, sometimes severe |
| Ashore | Beach bars | Rainforest, rivers, waterfalls, hot springs |
| Support when it breaks | Hours away | A day away, in France |
New to all of this? Start with the BVI bareboat basics and see why most people start in the BVI.
Dominica charter questions
Can you charter a bareboat in Dominica?
Not from Dominica itself. There is no charter base. You charter in Guadeloupe or Martinique and sail there, which takes two days each way with a stop at Les Saintes or Saint-Pierre.
Is it better to sail to Dominica from Guadeloupe or Martinique?
Guadeloupe. The crossing from Les Saintes to Portsmouth is about 20 miles and you arrive at the better anchorage. From Martinique it is about 36 miles from Saint-Pierre to Roseau, and a seven night trip is mostly sailing.
Are the anchorages in Dominica rolly?
Yes. It is the most beautiful island in the chain and the least comfortable at anchor. Both Portsmouth and Roseau get swell, worst from January to March. Take a mooring, rig a stern anchor or a bridle, and expect at least one bad night.
What is PAYS in Dominica?
The Portsmouth Association of Yacht Security: local boat operators who run the moorings, patrol the anchorage at night, guide the Indian River and island tours and help with customs. Use them.
How long do you need in Dominica?
Two nights in Portsmouth is the minimum to do the Indian River and one inland tour. Add a night in Roseau for the waterfalls. On a seven night charter that is about all you can fit.
Thinking about Dominica?
Tell us your dates, crew and experience and we will tell you straight whether it suits you, or whether another island would suit you better. Same price as booking direct.